Racing wheel in F1 25: what is supported and how to set it up

EA publishes an official list of the wheels F1 25 supports on PlayStation 5, Xbox Series and PC, and it is not the same thing as a wheel working on that console. We crossed it with the 22 kits in our comparison, including update 1.13, which starts rolling out on 14 October and adds the Logitech RS50 and the Thrustmaster T98. 18 of the 22 are officially supported on every platform they work on. The rest is where the surprises are.

What comes out of the cross-check

On PC, EA gives a factory preset to 12 of our kits, which means that when you plug them in the game maps the buttons and sets the force feedback on its own. No Logitech is among them: the G29, G920 and G923 are supported, but on PC you set them up by hand. The RS50 came in with update 1.13 and the list does not say yet whether it gets one.

The Thrustmaster T598 has an Xbox version, the T598-X, and it works on the console, but it is not on the F1 25 list for Xbox. The Hori Racing Wheel Apex is listed for PlayStation 5 and not for PC. The PXN VD4 and VD6 are not on the list on any platform. And the T98 Ferrari 296 GTB and the RS50 McLaren were not there until update 1.13.

The list names models, not bundles: the T248R appears as the T248, the T-GT II as the T-GT and the T300 Ferrari Integral as the T300.

Before you open the game: your brand's software

On PC, calibrate the wheel with its manufacturer's software before touching anything in the game (Logitech G HUB, MOZA Pit House or the Thrustmaster and Fanatec drivers) and update the firmware from there. On console there is no software: what you can change lives in the base itself or in the game.

In the game: the settings worth leaving at zero

The steering deadzone, saturation and linearity settings reshape the signal from your wheel before the car sees it. At zero, the game does not touch it: what you turn is what the front wheels turn. That is the starting point that makes sense, and you only move away from it if something feels wrong, for example if the car is too twitchy around the centre.

The force: less the more torque your base has

The bases in our comparison go from 2.3 Nm to 8 Nm of torque. The force feedback strength in the game decides how much of that torque it uses, and if it asks for more than the base can give, the signal flattens out: the wheel goes numb right in the heavy corners, which is where you want the most information. That is why there is no single right number. A gear-driven wheel at 2.3 Nm can take a high setting, while an 8 Nm direct drive base needs it much lower. If your wheel has a factory preset on PC, start from there.

If you are still choosing a wheel, start with the wheel comparison; if you race in leagues, the wheels for F1 leagues page; and if it is your first one, best racing wheel for beginners.